Making a Corncob Pipe

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jeffsimpson

Might Stick Around
Apr 12, 2014
50
3
Me and a friend recently started discussing making our own corncob pipes but we probably won't start until the summer when corn is nice and cheap at the grocery store. The problem is, is that we really don't know what we're doing; sure there's lots of online tutorials but I'm looking for some input from people who have made their own before. At our disposal, we have my drill set, a dehydrator, and some pocket knives.
What I'm really wondering is what order do we do things? Do we let the cobs sit for a couple of weeks and then bore out the bowl or do we do that first? what are good sizes for stems? We were thinking of getting some half-inch dowel from the hardware store and drilling a quarter-inch hole through the middle. Is there better methods? Is there any treatments we have to do to the pipe or are they good to go once it's all hollowed out?
Any information is greatly appreciated.
-Jeff

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,455
I admire any do it yourself project. To actually produce a useable item is an education and worth it.

But you might want to consider getting a pre-drilled briar each and going that route. Missouri Meerschaum

and Old Dominion have perfected the corn cob pipe to such a level, at such a reasonable price, that it is

hard to beat them for a corn cob pipe. Still, if you try it, I know everyone on Forums would be glad to hear

about it. If you carve a briar, whatever the result, the end product would probably last longer and reward

the effort in a bigger way. Just a thought.

 

anglesey

Can't Leave
Jan 15, 2014
383
2
I did this once. I let the cob dry out for a couple weeks before I began to shape it. I cut the cob up into a rough sized shape, but I can't for the life of me remember how I dug the bowl... Either way, after that I sanded the inside of the bowl to remove some of the excess pith and make it more cylendrical, and the same on the outside. I then cut a hole in the rough area with a marlin spike and a hot iron rod. Then I found a straight piece of cherry about six inches long, took off the bark and whittled it into a rough cylinder, fitting tightly into the draw hole I made. I then burned a hole with the same hot iron rod straight through the middle of the stem, and cut a rough 30 degree angle on the bowl end.
It's a hell of a rough piece of work, but its how I imagined folk might have made them in desperation back in the day. It's not a bad smoker though, especially from a corn on the cob i got vaccuum packed in spar.

 

virginiacob

Can't Leave
Dec 30, 2013
450
7
Jeff,
We did quite a bit of research before starting our Old Dominion line of corn cob pipes. The corn that was traditionally used for making pipes would not have been the modern hybrid "sweet corn" that you buy at the grocery store today. Missouri Meerschaum (MM) uses a hybrid corn for their pipes, but it is a special white hybrid corn developed through the University of Missouri specifically to produce thick cobs suitable for making pipes. Traditional 19th century cob pipes were made using Indian corn which was the most common variety of corn planted in the 18th and 19th centuries before modern hybrid varieties offering higher yields and sized for ease of mechanical harvesting began to relegate Indian corn to a more "novelty" status in the 20th century. Other than the hybrid variety that was developed for making pipes, most modern hybrid corn has been developed specifically for higher kernel yield and thus the cobs tend to be rather small and not ideal for pipe production. We use an heirloom variety of Indian corn that has been grown in our region of Virginia since the 1870s. The variety almost went extinct a few years ago until my brother discovered it and was able to save it and begin to cultivate it on our farm. We consider our variety somewhat "proprietary" and do not sell the seed to the general public.
Re: stems, traditional corn cob pipes used reed or bamboo stems. Early cob pipes often used rivercane (canebrake) stems (often referred to as reed stems) which once commonly grew throughout the South and Southeast. Rivercane is a native American bamboo and was also used for stems for 19th century clay trade pipes. By the 20th century you begin to see cob pipes made with bamboo stems other than rivercane (this may have been as a result of rivercane becoming harder to find and in insufficient quantity to meet commercial production needs). Eventually the bamboo stem gave way to the wooden stems with mouth bits. Interestingly, in my personal collection I have a store display with original MM bamboo stem cob pipes that probably dates from the late '30s to the '40s and interestingly the display features the drawing of a man smoking a cob pipe and the pipe he is smoking has a mouth bit even though the pipes on the display all have bamboo stems! It was apparently a "transition" period and the bamboo stem pipes at that point were most likely considered "economy" pipes in their pipe line.
Cob pipes can be "natural" or they can be sealed with Plaster of Paris and coated with lacquer. It is my feeling that Henry Tibbe and his early cob pipe competitors began to seal their cobs with Plaster of Paris for a couple of reasons. First, Indian corn cobs, though thicker than many modern hybrids, are still relatively small and if you want to bore them out to a fairly large chamber size (3/4" seems to be a popular chamber diameter size in cob pipes)you can very easily end up with thin sidewalls and porous spots within the sidewalls of the chamber. By applying Plaster of Paris you in essence seal up these thin and porous spots within the sidewalls. Second, by applying Plaster of Paris and allowing it to harden, you can then more easily sand and shape the cob on a lathe providing a smoother "meerschaum-like" finish (remember that Henry Tibbe was a woodworker by trade). The lacquer coating then simply seals in the Plaster and protects it from air and moisture. A natural cob will perform just fine as a pipe (our Old Dominion line of cob pipes are all natural and MM offers several of their models with the natural option as well). With a natural cob you can be limited into how wide you bore out your chamber and typically will have to use a smaller chamber size so as not to compromise the integrity of the chamber sidewalls.
Best of luck with your project.

 

jeffsimpson

Might Stick Around
Apr 12, 2014
50
3
This is awesome info guys; I wasn't expecting this much. We realize that it won't be that high-quality of a product, but it seems like a good way to pass the time over the summer and have something to show for it. In terms of stems, bamboo seems brilliant and we can probably find some in my neck of the woods for relatively cheap. Lastly, I'll definitely note that info on lacquering. Originally we weren't thinking of finishing them, but if it means that we can potentially have a larger bowel, it seems like the best way to go.
Once we do this (in a month or two from now), I'll be sure to take lots of pictures and keep everyone updated.
-Jeff

 

jeffsimpson

Might Stick Around
Apr 12, 2014
50
3
Also, this may sound like a foolish question, but should the corn be removed before the process or can the corn be left on? I really can't find any info on it. Should it just be shaved off or should it be eaten?

 

dottiewarden

Lifer
Mar 25, 2014
3,053
57
Toronto
"Also, this may sound like a foolish question, but should the corn be removed before the process or can the corn be left on? I really can't find any info on it. Should it just be shaved off or should it be eaten?"
I'm wondering the same thing!

 

fearsclave

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 9, 2014
209
0
Leaving the kernels on? Might be safe. If the pipe got hot enough for them to start popping, you'd probably be smoking it too hot anyhow...

 
Jan 8, 2013
1,189
3
If you are looking for a potentially larger "bowel" all you need is a trip to a federal prison. Lol.
Sorry, couldn't resist.

 
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