How to Remove Charing? Pics

uneek · Sep 28, 2016

I have a nice looking DiMonte estate pipe I like very much. When I got it, there was a lot of charing around the rim. I would like to clean that away and wondered what would happen if I used some 400 to 600 grip sand paper to gently remove it then follow up with a sequential series of micro-mesh pads. Would that ruin it or is this the way it's done?

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pagan · Sep 28, 2016

Verry fine sand paper, 2000 or better

cosmicfolklore · Sep 28, 2016

It's only ruined when you think it's ruined. It looks as if you'd have to almost take the whole rim down to get all of the char off. But, it could just be the picture, hard to tell. But, if you get it to a degree that youre happy with, that's all that matters, right?

Give it your best. I'd be anxious to see how you do. Please post post-pictures. : puffy

:

gloucesterman · Sep 28, 2016

Much of he damage is to the inner edge of the rim. An alternative to sanding it down to the point where the char is no longer visible is to bevel the inner edge. I have done this with a number of pipes with good results. Any of the big box store sell die grinder stones on blister packs. I use the conical shaped stone to do the course work and then finish with progressive sanding grits starting at 300 and working through 2000. these grits can be obtained at any auto parts store with a decent body work section. This approach will give you a nice crisp edge. Below is a before and after on a Dunhill I did last year. Hope that's helpful.

ssjones · Sep 28, 2016

That looks pretty deep, but easily fixed, by reshaping. I try and not be any more aggressive than 800, but that could require 600 or so to get the char removed to an even level. You have plenty of briar to work with, and with that rounded, smooth rim, it is a fairly simple job. It will need to be restained, which is also fairly easy as well. Good luck and keep us posted.

uneek · Sep 29, 2016

Thanks for all the excellent advice. This is going to be an awesome project and I'll take pics. I will grab some 400 and 600 grit paper tomorrow while I wait for the micro-mesh pads to arrive in the mail. Closer inspection revealed an elevated spot on the rim of the bowl. I want to use the coarser grit to bring that down some. If I had a grinder, I would just level it off but I don't so, I'll have to do it all by hand.
I'm intrigued by beveling the inner rim of the bowl. That seems to remove quite a bit of material and can completely change the character of this bowl in short order. It may indeed become necessary if the charring is as deep as it seems. I looked at it under a magnifying glass after the picture I posted revealed a small crack in what looks like the cake in the area closest to the shank. If that's not the cake, it's some seriously charred wood.
Commentary welcomed.

fnord · Sep 29, 2016

Uneek:
I've cleaned more than a few pipes up to my standards but have sent out four that were well beyond my skill set. georged, ejames, danielplainview and Ken Davis have all brought Lazarus back from the dead.
The first two repairmen resurrected a lovely classic Rhodesian and and Comoy's Blue Riband, DPV recently laid hands on a vintage, sweet smoking Jobey pot - pix to follow - and KD had the monstrous task of cleaning up a well used, three dollar junk store, 26/27 Dunhill bowl found with a mismatched DH stem missing the white spot. (It still needs a few touch ups, and a white spot.)
Uneek, while you're sanding, buffing and grinding please know that nomenclature, edges and material disappear in a heartbeat. You gotta' go light, pal, with a soft, deft touch. Otherwise, pay the extra monies and let a pro do the hard stuff. (The Sasieni shields I've erased on their wonderful seconds is maddening.) Don't be me. Be smart.
Fnord

uneek · Sep 29, 2016

Thanks fnord,
I think I'll ease into it. I'll start with light sanding on the inner edge to see what happens. There is some cracked carbon that I might use a 400 or 600 grit to sand down instead of reaming. I'm concerned a reamer might chip it or crack the bowl. Possibly? I'm pretty sure it will eventually crack the bowl if I do nothing.
If I'm wrong or making a mistake, please let me know.

ejames · Sep 29, 2016

Looks to me that since it is pretty badly charred you will need to do as Al suggested and do some reshaping and you will not be able to do that with 400-600 sandpaper very easily. I have reshaped several and I use sanding sticks (looks like a file with 1" wide sandpaper strips) with 150-220 sandpaper and/or files. They are not mandatory but do make the job easier and quicker. Your pipe will not the same as was new, but it can still be a very nice pipe and if done correctly most would never know it had been topped and reshaped. Once you get rid of the charring and have the reshaping done then you can move up through the grits to produce a nice finish. Unless you able to match the stain on it you will need to sand the entire pipe( starting with 400-600) and either leave it unstained or stain to suit. These pics are of a very badly burnt Rinaldo I did a couple of years ago for a gent in Arkansas.

instymp · Sep 29, 2016

Nice restore gloucesterman & Ejames! Also loved the tamper Ejames sold me last month. Great talent here.

uneek · Sep 30, 2016

Those restorations are beautiful. I don't have any experience so my mileage will definitely vary.
I have gotten the charring off of the rim using 600 then 800 grit. I had to go fairly deep to get below the burn marks and a few knock marks on the other side. Generally, the top of the bowl is rounded like an apple. I would like to define an edge of some sort so I grabbed a 3/4 to 1 1/4 conical grinding stone to even up the edges but I didn't think to measure the bowl. I figured it was a standard 1" but it swallows the whole grinding bit. I will get a larger conical bit and finish it the way I want.
I found that some of the wood near the rim is naturally dark so I had to stop sanding there. I will be sanding off the rest of the finish next. Here she is with the charring and knocks removed so far.

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uneek · Sep 30, 2016

I removed the remainder of the finish using 800 grit with no problem. The nomenclature remains intact. I was surprised how quickly the wood began to darken after sanding. It was within minutes. I wouldn't call it oxidation but that's what it was like.
Here it is naked.

ejames · Sep 30, 2016

Looking good !!

pipesmokingtom · Sep 30, 2016

Coming right along.
What are your plans for finishing? Staining it or just leaving it natural?

uneek · Sep 30, 2016

The more I stare at it while waiting for the micro-mesh to arrive (today) the more I am appreciating its natural beauty. I just got some pure carnabuba wax that I'll use after I polish it with the mesh. I can always come back and stain it later if I feel like a change. Thanks for all the kind words.

pipesmokingtom · Sep 30, 2016

I just got some pure carnabuba wax that I'll use after I polish it with the mesh.

Twas the answer I was hoping to read!

cosmicfolklore · Sep 30, 2016

That's looking great!!! Go go go!

uneek · Oct 1, 2016

I have reached a point of satisfaction. The wood looks beautiful polished and waxed. Once this coat sets, I will layer on additional coats for an even deeper sheen. I sanded and polished the stem before applying obsidian oil to top it off. It turned out better than I expected.
Here is a close up of the final results and a picture of her in her final glory.

Thanks everyone, it's been awesome getting more familiar with this gem. I appreciate all the excellent advice.

puffermark · Oct 4, 2016

Great job, and a lovely pipe with a new lease on life. Congrats! Enjoy!

cosmicfolklore · Oct 4, 2016

Great job! Now, you have a real connection with this one.

I have one that I am doing something similar with.

How to Remove Charing? Pics

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