How to fill a pit?

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tppytel

Starting to Get Obsessed
Sep 23, 2014
156
0
I usually happily ignore minor sand pits in my inexpensive smooth pipes, but I've got a Peterson Aran that's bugging me. It's got two small - pinhead size or smaller - but very noticeable pits right at 12 o'clock on the rim and the front of the bowl. I've had the pipe for years and smoked it often, but I noticed these in a recent cleaning and now I can't not notice them. I think at least one of the pits had been filled before but got knocked out over the years. The other might have been a ding from dropping the pipe at some point. The pipe has been well-smoked over the years and has already darkened significantly from its factory finish, so I'm not worried about future color changes making the fill more visible.
Any tips for how to go about doing this? I Googled and found a few comments, but it's sometimes hard to tell whether they're about adding a fill to a finished pipe or to filling it after carving before all the staining and sanding happens. The rest of the pipe's finish is quite nice, so I don't want to do anything requiring wholesale sanding and refinishing. I just want to touch up those spots. I've seen reports of using briar dust and superglue as well just using a typical wood putty from Home Depot. Other suggestions on materials? And then what about color matching? Would I want to use a real wood stain of some sort? Maybe just a touch of shoe polish or leather dye?
Any suggestions appreciated.

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,433
A pipe repairman would have a good time repairing the pits and would disguise them so you wouldn't

notice them. However, a certain amount of wear and tear can be appealing and make the pipe more

interesting and "loved" looking. Try living with the pits and see if they grow on you. If not, spend a few

bucks and have the pipe spruced up. You obviously like the pipe, so it would be worth it. Having a go-to

pipe repairman is a good thing.

 

warren

Lifer
Sep 13, 2013
11,700
16,209
Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK
I'm sorry I just can't censor myself. I love the thread title.
Purina or perhaps a toy poodle or two (sorry poodle owners).
If it's a tiny pit I'd probably go after it with a magic marker. Get as close as possible to the surrounding stain and stop before going darker.
A large pit should be filled with sanding residue and glue. I do this in the shop on projects. Probably couldn't do a pipe as I have no briar dust. I think, in this case, I'd seek the assistance of a pipe builder or repairman . . . person, pipe repair person.

 

tppytel

Starting to Get Obsessed
Sep 23, 2014
156
0
I have some briar blocks around that I can make some dust out of, and I'm fairly experienced in working tiny amounts of material with small tools. It's more the color matching I'm not so sure about. But I have a hard time believing this is a job only suitable for professionals. It doesn't seem that hard.
Also, I appreciate the good intentions in suggestions to just live with the pits. As I noted in my very first sentence, I usually do exactly that. But I've decided to fill the pits on this particular pipe, and I'm not seeking opinions on that.

 

warren

Lifer
Sep 13, 2013
11,700
16,209
Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK
The key is to not make the fill darker than the surrounding material. Get as close as possible and stop! Slighter lighter is less likely to catch the eye as opposed to darker.
I've not done this to a pipe. I have filled holes, dings and scratches on fine furniture and my own products. If using stain you might have to blend the edges, depending on the size of the fill. I've done his for years and would not hesitate to fill a pipe pit if I thought it necessary. As an applicator I would most likely use a toothpick for stain. You can't wipe the stain after application on a small fill, so dab it once with a clean cloth.
The material you use to bind the dust is the key to whether or not you could stain or use a marker on the fill. I suggest using the dust you have, bind it with a wood glue (depending on the size of the void, put a bit of, I suggest "Tite Bond III", on a clean surface and mix in the dust until you have a fairly thick paste. Work the paste into the void as carefully as possible. I wouldn't want to sand down the fill so leave a bit of a dimple and let dry. Once dry, again, this depends on the size of the fill, a bit of stain or a tap on the fill with a brown or red or what ever is closest to the surrounding stain marker. Let dry completely before assessing the color match. If too light give another hit of coloring. I can't stress enough that a little too light is much better than a little too dark.
I'm sure a pipe repair has an easier and less convoluted way of doing this type of repair. But, this is how I would go about it.
If you muck it up, the pipe is still good and you've learned something.

 
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cobguy

Lifer
Oct 18, 2013
3,742
15
Purina or perhaps a toy poodle or two
Beat me to it! :rofl:
Create some very fine brair dust / shavings and mix with just enough super-glue to create a thick paste.

Use a needle or other tiny pointed object and work this mix into the pits.

After drying, lightly sand the area to match it's surroundings.

For the color matching, leather dye (Fiebings) would be good.

You can "cut" the dye with alcohol until it's the desired shade.
Lastly ... pics or it didn't happen! :)

 
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tppytel

Starting to Get Obsessed
Sep 23, 2014
156
0
Thanks for the comments, guys. It's getting late and I'll need some time to process those, so I'll post back later this week.
If you muck it up, the pipe is still good and you've learned something.
My feelings exactly. This is a workhorse pipe, not one that I'd show off or resell. I'd rather muck it up myself and learn something than send it out to get done professionally. It's just a good project.
I'll be sure to snap some pics before I do anything permanent.

 

brownpeter335

Lurker
Sep 11, 2014
37
0
Fill the pit with 6 inches of gravel, which will help support the first two courses as they set up. Glue and lay the third and fourth courses, continuing to stagger the joints.
Insert the iron campfire ring into the circle. Adjust it to sit even with the top of the block wall. Fill any space between the ring and the block wall to the top with gravel.

 
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