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throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
Always looking for new/alternative ways of doing things... was on eBay looking for something when I saw this and thought... hmm, would that work?
Was thinking for after reaming an estate pipe, using an abrasive grinding bit instead of sanding. Put in a drill press at a lower speed, has a round bottom... plus if doing any repairs inside the bowl using something like JBWeld, this should smooth that out nicely.
Anyone ever try it? Any thoughts?
7387_12.JPG


 

aldecaker

Lifer
Feb 13, 2015
4,407
42
That's going to remove a lot of material in a really big hurry. Also, I'm no chemist, but I wouldn't smoke a pipe with JB weld inside the bowl.

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
REBORN PIPES
Apparently safe... I mean, the rebornpipes guys aren't dead yet, so, that's a good sign. :D
Material wise... those bits comes in different sizes. I was thinking, if you ream the pipe to remove the bulk, getting a grinding bit the same width as the reamer, shouldn't remove anything more other than to help make things smooth and uniform.
I've seen where people used dremel tools with drum sanders to smooth things out but, can't do the rounded part at the bottom.
Also debated trying a dremel tool with a brass wire cup, or the one with the hard nylon bristles.... would collect at the bottom and take out some unwanted buildup, and the cup spreads out when spinning so pulling it out would gently scrape the sides.
Just spitballin' ideas...

 

mcitinner1

Lifer
Apr 5, 2014
4,043
24
Missouri
TH a power tool is probably too aggressive. Even a manual reamer can cause a lot of damage if you're not careful. Properly used a Castleford reamer set gives a more uniform and symmetrical bowl than a power tool would, unless your fairly experienced.

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
Ha... I like how quickly the discussion turned to 'let us know how it works'... I think 1 person commented on the grinder, everyone else focused on the JBWeld which wasn't even the topic. :D
JBWeld stinks... then it dries, cures, and smells like nothing and is non-toxic at that point. I wouldn't line the entire bowl with it, just in the cracks if any. But again... NOT the point of the OP. :D
My Castleford reamer's handle broke the other day, so, started looking online at other options. See some people using spoon bits, large rounded drill bits, etc... I'd still prefer to ream by hand, but, when done I'd like to really get in and smooth things out. Plus sometimes the reamers don't reach the bottom because the shape/curve is different. That's why I thought wire cup.
Figured some people on here may have done some experimentation of their own and may have tried either the stone bit, or wire cup.

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
No, my heart is not set on this... where are you getting that from?
I simply asked if anyone has tried the stone bit before, you said JBWeld stinks and as for the stone, it's my pipe.
I never once said this was a great idea and that I'm going to do it no matter what anyone says.
You and mcitinner1 already said to let you know how it works... I never said I was/wasn't going to do it.. I don't even have a stone bit. :lol:

 
Ok, sorry, you had mentioned the JB Weld, so I thought that you were laying it out on the table for us.
My thoughts on the bur. I use one of these to sharpen tools, and in certain instances I have tried using it on other things. It doesn't work a flip on sharpening for me, as it tends to gouge up the hard metals, and not work on softer ones. Sand papers work by allowing particles of the abrasive to dislodge thus allowing the paper not to become clogged up and stop working, until all of the abrasive has rubbed off. But, a stone bur has no such mechanism. It will just clog up with soft metals and wood. Now, I've not used one with cake, but my thinking is that the cake is resinous, so it will clog fast. I've not tried it, but that's my speculation. Thus, I'd be curious to hear how it works for you.
Is that better? :puffy:

 

mcitinner1

Lifer
Apr 5, 2014
4,043
24
Missouri
There is a thread from about 2 weeks ago that talks about a different brand, same style of reamer as the CF. I can't remember the name, but it was beefier, supposedly.

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
No, just a passing mention... but your comment on the heat made me look into that aspect and from what I read, pipes hit sometimes up to 650C and that JBWeld is only good for peaks of 500C... so... hmm...
Stone, ya, I could see that being an issue, getting all gummed up.
Brass cup I think would work for the bottom of the bowl, the sides maybe, if pulling out only. Moving the dremel in, I could see the wires getting caught and doing some damage. I do have one of these, and a steel one which would be too hard. The nylon ones may be too soft but a good start point. I do have a few 'bad' pipes from a lot I bought... like burn through bad... so might test the wire cup idea on those.
But ya... just spit-ballin' ideas... If a bunch of people said its a bad idea... I'd not waste money buying a bit to try with. Just saw it and the shape, figured may be an alternative to using sanding paper on my finger.
Too bad they didn't make that grinding bit out of rubber and covered in micro-mesh... that'd be handy.

 

daimyo

Lifer
May 15, 2014
1,460
4
Whoa whoa, who told you dried JB Weld is nontoxic? That's not what the makers material data sheet shows, although it does show low toxicity. As to heating "INHALATION: Vapors are unlikely due to physical properties. Not a problem unless heated"

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
Ya, there is a reamer the same as the Castleford that's an orange/amber colour... Pipnet Reamer? Ya that's what it was... Swiss made or something like that.
Harder to find, and at the time I wasn't really sure if I'd enjoy fixing up estate pipes or not so went for the $20 Castelford. I think the Pipnet was around $60 or something.
I was thinking of getting an old 3/8" socket, weld it to bolt, put the bolt end into a T-Handle or find an old/thick allen wrench and weld that into the socket. The 3/8" square opening on a socket seems to fit the reamer bits perfectly.

 

daimyo

Lifer
May 15, 2014
1,460
4
Hmmm... the MDS is a legal document though. Perhaps if toxicity is low enough they can use the term nontoxic. Either way, as long as it's far from the lighter or match, it's probably not going to get too hot. I think I'll just count myself lucky I have yet to need glue in a pipe.

 

throbinson

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 19, 2014
233
9
Zurich, ON (Canada)
Ya I have few lots I bought... none of them 'great' pipes... I'm still learning and would rather learn on a $5 pipe than a $200 pipe. :D
Most are in great shape, but, a couple have some... issues... which is actually a good thing. Great way to experiment and learn.
I'm grinding a few spoon bits for the 'issue' pipes mostly. One was just killed with over reaming, not a lot left... hoping to take a 1" bit, drill it out and make a briar insert for it then drill that out with a 3/4". Rusticate the top, dye/stain it and see how it works. That or a meerschaum insert, which I've seen on eBay but the seller has issues with responding to questions it seems. Never a good sign.
A few have a good amount of bowl left, but cracking inside. Saw on Rebornpipes on a few estates, they filled in the cracks with JBWeld, sanded smooth, then lined the pipes with a mixture of sour cream and activated charcoal powder. They have a lot more experience than me so, just assumed JBWeld was the way to go.
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
Rebornpipes Link

 

kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
So I have a question, are these actual cracks you are trying to fill or are they just gouges in the wood? When I do pipe repairs, if it is just a gouge or low spot that needs to be built up a little how I handle it is completely different than if it is a crack. In some of the above post, it seems like the issue is referred to as a gouge and in others it is referred to as a crack. Just trying to get a clear picture in my head what the issue is. Or am I just confused.
Wes

 

agnosticpipe

Lifer
Nov 3, 2013
3,345
3,483
In the sticks in Mississippi
I'll put my two cents in here. When I was repairing an old Dunhill with a chunk missing from the bowl I glued in a piece of briar with an epoxy made by JB Weld called Wood Weld. I read about using JB Weld from Reborn Pipes, and figured this might work better as it's made more for wood. Yes I got some on the inside of the bowl, but when finishing the inside, I used a dremel on low speed with the sanding drum and the cone shaped stone too. I knew that there would still be some glue left around the piece I glued in, but I had planned on coating the inside of the bowl with pipe cement. I glopped in a lot of cement, and after it dried, sanded it smooth, and gave it another coat after a few days with some cement made with cigar ash, hookah coal ash and rum. (no I don't smoke a hookah, but I had some coals my wife bought for using with incense resins)

This stuff made a rather hard cake in the bowl and only needed a little light sanding. I'm not passing judgement on the JB Weld issue, but with the bowl cake I have never tasted anything remotely glue like in the number of times I've smoked this pipe. Like I said before, if it explodes, or starts falling apart, it's going to become a squat pot!
Oh and the sanding drum on the dremel at low speed is great for removing cake as is the little cone shaped stones. BUT! you must move quickly, smoothly and be careful when doing this. A light touch is all you need.

 
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