Gap between shank and stem

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will46r

Might Stick Around
Mar 6, 2015
57
0
I cleaned the oxidation off of a Peterson I bought this weekend. Now there's about a 1/32" gap all the way around the stem/shank joint. I didn't touch the faces and ran a brush down the shank to make sure there's no blockage. Any advice?


 

bonehed

Part of the Furniture Now
Nov 27, 2014
636
0
Smoke it. It might lessen after a bowl or two. The stummel may be dry and shrank from lack of use..

 
You have to be careful when going through all of the advise that you'll get on here. Some may seem like really good ideas, and *some will just scare you with a perceived danger. But, I will have to be honest with you. The fix for this is terrifying. First, get your insurance card ready and a really small belt, have someone standing by to run you to the ER if the worst happens, as expected. Then take a 16" chainsaw, place it in your lap and crank it. I always have to prime it first, but that would depend on what brand you have. Avoid electric saws, as they don't usually have the brakes that the gas one will have, and sawing half-way through your leg is always better than all the way.

So, crank the saw and grip the stem with one hand firmly, as you don't want the force to throw the stem to get ripped out of your grip and slam against a wall. This is where vicegrips rule. Tighten those mothers up snug. Ok, cranked saw, stem in vicegrips, now carefully remove just a hairs width of stem. Next, you'll need a tourniquet. Use the small belt to prevent too much loss of blood before someone can get you to the ER.

The last step is to enjoy your pipe as you relax on your way to the ER.
*Warning, this method should only be attempted by the most experienced of pipe smokers. :puffy:

 

voorhees

Lifer
May 30, 2012
3,834
937
Gonadistan
You have to be careful when going through all of the advise that you'll get on here. Some may seem like really good ideas, and *some will just scare you with a perceived danger. But, I will have to be honest with you. The fix for this is terrifying. First, get your insurance card ready and a really small belt, have someone standing by to run you to the ER if the worst happens, as expected. Then take a 16" chainsaw, place it in your lap and crank it. I always have to prime it first, but that would depend on what brand you have. Avoid electric saws, as they don't usually have the brakes that the gas one will have, and sawing half-way through your leg is always better than all the way.

So, crank the saw and grip the stem with one hand firmly, as you don't want the force to throw the stem to get ripped out of your grip and slam against a wall. This is where vicegrips rule. Tighten those mothers up snug. Ok, cranked saw, stem in vicegrips, now carefully remove just a hairs width of stem. Next, you'll need a tourniquet. Use the small belt to prevent too much loss of blood before someone can get you to the ER.

The last step is to enjoy your pipe as you relax on your way to the ER.
*Warning, this method should only be attempted by the most experienced of pipe smokers. :puffy:
Had a little too much coffee eh Michael?

 

dmcmtk

Lifer
Aug 23, 2013
3,672
1,685
All hyperbole aside, the bottom of the mortise may have some solidified, hardened tars causing the problem. In the past, Ive successfully removed it with a small regular screwdriver by twisting it against the bottom of the mortise, in other words, using a screwdriver whose head is smaller in diameter than the mortise.

 

will46r

Might Stick Around
Mar 6, 2015
57
0
Thanks. I'll run a drill bit or dental pick down in the bottom of the mortise.

 

dmcmtk

Lifer
Aug 23, 2013
3,672
1,685
I DO NOT think a drill bit or a dental pick is the way to go. A FLAT HEAD screwdriver, CAREFULLY. If you have a small flashlight, take a look first, try to see what you may be dealing with.

 

jpmcwjr

Moderator
Staff member
May 12, 2015
24,565
27,064
Carmel Valley, CA
I'd start with Q-tips and alcohol, moving to the small screwdriver. And indeed, a few smokes might free some gunk enough to swab it out.
The gap in the photo isn't close to as big as 1/32. It also looks like the edges of the bit have been rounded, which would add to the appearance of a gap.
Have you measured how deep is the mortise and how long the tenon?

 

will46r

Might Stick Around
Mar 6, 2015
57
0
I used a skillsaw instead of my chainsaw, couldn't get the chainsaw in a comfortable position....

 

will46r

Might Stick Around
Mar 6, 2015
57
0
I was careful... only have the blade about 30x the depth of cut, that's the correct way to set it up, right?
The gap is probably less than ten thousandths of an inch, I don't have feeler gauges at the house. Light shows all the way to the tenon so it's not a rounded edge issue. The mortise is cleaned down to bare wood. The tenon length is shorter than the depth of the mortise. I'm going to chalk the fillet at the tenon to see if it's interfering with fit.

 
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