Bowl cleaning and buffing?

grizzly86 · May 21, 2012

I'm sure this has been covered before, but I have spent a few hours searching and can't seem to find what I am looking for.
My father-in-law recently bought a bench grinder and said that I was welcome to use it any time. It is an 8" adjustable rpm; 1725 is the lowest setting.

Does anyone know where I can get an extension attachment to get the wheel away from the metal guards while I am buffing? Should I use a wheel smaller than 8" to get the speed down a little more? I have read that some prefer canton flannel wheels for buffing, are these best or would you suggest something else?
What is the best way to clean dirt and grime off a rusticated pipe? I have a Nording that has some gunk in it I can't get off by hand. What exactly is White Diamond compound for? I assume because it is gritty I would be like using a high grit sand paper to get a shine on the pipe.
I will probably have more, and will make sure to post them here instead of starting another thread. Thanks in advance for any help.

ejames · May 21, 2012

To use that grinder you will have to take the grinding wheels off and get arbors that attach to the motor shaft. I got mine here- http://www.jestcoproducts.com/index.php

Also bought all of my wheels and compounds from them. Steve--Smokingdawg sell some nice arbors also.

Some good info on refurbing-refinishing pipes here-- http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/about1644.html

http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/about1612.html

http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/about812.html

grizzly86 · May 21, 2012

@ejames thanks for the links. Looks like the arbor extension at jestcoproducts is exactly what I was looking for. Don't know why I didn't think of getting some soft bristle brushes for cleaning the rusticated pipes...brain fart I guess. You say you buy your wheels from jestco, and I noticed they are all 100% cotton...are these better than the canton flannel wheels, or is it just a preference thing?

topd · May 21, 2012

May I suggest this: I think ejames is way more experienced than I am at this kind of thing... But that big of a tool may be the wrong one for an inexperienced pipe repair guy grizzly. Just a thought now.... I'm a retired jet mechanic and used to go for the biggest baddest tool to get the job done the fastest. (And the goverment was paying for it.) But in this case... a dremel with a small cotton wheel is a thought.

You don't even need to buy one... ask at the coffee or barber shop. Guys will loan you one. If not, twist some arms! Your a big guy!

ejames · May 21, 2012

You will need different types of wheels for different types of work.I use a hard sewn wheel to do the initial buffing on stems and bowls and use un-sewn soft wheels for final buffing on stems and bowls with my finest compounds and for buffing carnuba after applying it. I have six wheels at present. You shouldn't use a wheel for multiple compounds--a wheel for each,one for applying wax and one to buff the wax although I know of one pro pipe maker who uses the same wheel to apply and buff carnuba. The canton flannel wheels are generally used to shine up the wax after applying. The soft un-sewn wheels I get from Jestco work fine for me. I use the 6" wheels.

grizzly86 · May 21, 2012

@topd Thanks for looking out, but I have 2 $20 "beater" pipes I plan on practicing with first. Hey, if I break one of them that gives me a good excuse to get another right? :mrgreen:
@ejames thanks again for the tips. Hard sewn for initial and soft for polishing. Would you mind listing the compounds you use and what they are for?

ejames · May 21, 2012

Here's the two I use. I wet sand stems to 800 to 1000 depending on stem material and buff with this--

http://www.jestcoproducts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=12

That white compound will put a very nice shine on a stem or smooth sanded briar and also any metal parts. You need a separate wheel for metals. Alum. and brass will turn the wheel black and you don't want to buff your bowls with that wheel.

For a little added sparkle on stems I use this red rouge-

http://www.jestcoproducts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11
Those bars are big enough to do a boatload of pipes! I've had mine 2 years or more,and still got half bars--after I sent a big chunk of each to a friend.

ssjones · May 21, 2012

+1 on everyhing ejames said. I learned to heed his advice. Jestco is also where I get my pads, good prices and fast/reasonable shipping. You really don't need a ton, just one for each material. If you take care of them (buff rake), they'll last a long time doing pipes. You can make a rake from a hacksaw blade.
Smokingdawgs arbor system is priced right and convenient.
Just learn to hang on to the briar and/or stem. Even at 1750 rpm, that will fling a pipe a long way. And, please wear eye protection.
Apply less rouge than you think you need, a little goes a long way. And like the adage "measure twice, cut once", you can't put back material you polished away...
Have fun, it is very rewarding and for me, cathartic, to bring back to life an old pipe. The elbow grease applied is worth its weight in gold when enjoying the finished product.

nightmarejones · May 22, 2012

I'm with TopD..a dremel is good to start[I love mine and use it a-lot].I have found though ejames is right also...don't use the same pad for a different purpose.

grizzly86 · May 22, 2012

As always you guys are a huge help. I can't wait to get everything set up.

waznyf · May 28, 2012

Great info!

Might have to start using our grinder for that. Always thought it might be too much for the pipe but turns out you can use it.

steyrshrek · May 28, 2012

I have the same set-up and it works well. The idea that it's safer to use a dremel is counter intuitive. The dremel can do far more damage quickly than the larger grinder, mainly due to the concentration of forces and heat caused by the small diameter wheel.

coldfront · Jun 12, 2012

To all you folks thinkin about using an old bench grinder the RPMs are critical. You should not get too much over 1600 RPMs or you will get much too hot. I second the notion of a wheel for each compound. just my 2 cents. jim

ssjones · Jun 12, 2012

My motor spins at 1725 rpm, which seems just about perfect. It would be nice to convert it into a variable speed motor at some point, can't be too hard to do that.

coldfront · Jun 12, 2012

1725 is not too high. I think mine is 1700. Most grinders are higher. 1600 is ideal.thats what the woodworkers use. jim

photoman13 · Jun 12, 2012

I always here about people turning electric motors into buffers. Can anyone do this or is it a very difficult thing to do? Are there any generic instructions somewhere?

ssjones · Jun 12, 2012

I just found an old, seemingly unused motor in my parents basement. I think it was a back up for an old furnace. Member "smokingdawg" makes an arbor kit with pads that attach to the motor shaft for attaching a quick change pad. My uncle had an screw on arbor in his stash that I used and I bought pads from Jestco. I wired in a toggle on/off switch. I later exchanged that nut on the end of the shaft arbor that holds the pad in place for a wing nut (machined it down some, to not hit the pipe!). Now I can remove/swap buffs without a tool.
Here it is sitting on my work bench. I later learned to open the bench vise all the way (you can see the vise in the background), flip the motor over and slid the mount arms into the vise than tighten it down. Works great and when I'm done, the motor goes back under the worktop on a shelf. It's not as convenient as a two arm motor, but will work for my occasional refurb needs. Best of all, virtually free (except for the pads).

Mounted in the vise, with the pad removed showing the arbor:

Bowl cleaning and buffing?

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