Any Woodworkers Out There?

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

I have this wonderful old Ethan Allan desk that I got for $35 last summer:

...and I hope to strip and refinish it this coming spring, to match the pipe cabinet I will be building for my study. I'm looking for and among the wise gentlemen here for a selfless volunteer who is an experienced woodworker to provide advice as to how to proceed with this project. Any takers? I'll even send tobacco to you!

warren · Jan 31, 2015

Just looking at the photo, it looks to be a fairly easy and "up front" project. I would break it down to the constituent parts. Remove the drawers, stretcher, legs, dividers, and hardware, sand to bare wood, stain, finish and reassemble. Depending on the finish you are looking for, flat to high gloss, you are looking a only a few hours of actual work.

newbroom · Jan 31, 2015

rub it down with linseed oil and let it be what it is.

mcitinner1 · Jan 31, 2015

I realize it looks a little rough, and I don't know how old it is, but anyone familiar with "Antiques Road Show" will tell you it will be worth more with just a light cleaning. A piece that shows long time use and HAS NOT been refinished is always worth more. The value always goes DOWN if a piece has been refinished. But of course that's your decision.

warren · Jan 31, 2015

It doesn't appear to be antique in the strictest definition of the word. I say that without a close examination of the desk. "Ethan Allen" sold thousands of these, solid wood, no veneer and a bit pricey in the 60s, from their showrooms. As he wants it to fit the decor of his study, matching others pieces, stripping and finishing appears to be the only way to go.
If there is any question as to whether it is, in fact, an antique check the joinery of the drawers after identifying the woods. Hand-cut dovetails are an easy, quick indicator. What is the stain? Lots of ways to determine age. Still, it looks to be a nice piece of late 1900's furniture at this stage.

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

It does have dovetails; I don't know the difference between handcut and machine cut. It is indeed my intention to strip it down to wood, make repairs (easier said than done, since the stain will be a semi-transparent green, and putty wood would show through), reassemble and use it as my second study desk. I expect this project to take all spring, since I have to disassemble the whole thing, strip it, repair dents, shape a lock piece for the tresle, remove and replace curious knobs that cut into the wood. I have two desks in my study/office; one is for the desktop Mac, the second for general writing work. Notice the interesting box like compartment on the left: the lid of this poses a special problem because the cross piece that forms the right edge of the box seems to be too short for the box, as if it shrank. I'm not sure how I would go about fixing that. Or how it happened in the first place, for that matter. Probably some sort of aging effect. But I'm not too concerned if it's an antique: it will be an work space for my writing and drawing, nothing more. The right edge is severely beaten, as if stuck many times. That will have to be repaired with some sort of filler as well, though I don't know what kind will work with a transparent stain.

Still looking for that woodworker who can offer advice...

mcitinner1 · Jan 31, 2015

Good luck on the project.
You have a PM

derfatdutchman · Jan 31, 2015

The problems with wood filler is even the stainable ones don't take stain well. They also have low tensile strength so using them to rebuild corners is asking for problems. I would consider painting it with milk paint. It would allow you to make repairs without having to worry about matching in new and old wood. It would also be a peorid correct finish.

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

Thanks for that tip. I've never heard of milk paint before--is this something I should apply over the filler? Fortunately, btw, I don't believe there are any corners to be repaired.

warren · Jan 31, 2015

If the dove tails are identical and symmetrical, with no over cuts, chances are great that they were created with machinery as opposed cut free-hand with saw and chisels. They will "look" hand crafted as opposed to jigs and such being used. The "fit" will look rougher than machine cut joinery.
To help your fills take stain, make your own wood filler with saw dust and wood glue. It won't be perfect but, for small fills should be acceptable. If you are just filling dings and small cracks, think about not doing so and leaving a bit of the history of its use.
If this piece is indeed "antique" and the finish existing is original you do not want to touch it. It just doesn't look like period piece to me. Still if it is, buy another piece for your den. Then, sell the antique, put a bit away for the kid's college fund and go out and purchase all the Dunhills or whatever you want. Maybe even a mink for wife and a gently used Ferrari for yourself.

mcitinner1 · Jan 31, 2015

Warren I like the way you think. 8)

warren · Jan 31, 2015

sparrowhawk: I guess I am unsure of exactly what you want. My advise is, if you're intent on refurbishing and finishing, is as above. Break it down, sand and finish. If there is bad damage in places, it may be better to replace the damaged part and refrain from any use of fillers.
If the pipe cabinet is of the same wood, use the same stain. If they are of disparate woods each will "take" stain differently. Experiment with scrap from the rack project and insides of drawer pieces.
Some dents can be repaired by wetting the area and using an iron so that it "swells" and the fibers return to original shape. You can also consider cutting out particularly damaged areas and plugging or splicing in new material.
Depending the what would be an acceptably finished product, you can make this endeavor simple or very complicated.
Short of running my fingers and eyeballs over the piece this is the best I can do as far as general advise. I'm a fairly skilled and accomplished woodworker but, in no way am I a professional restorer.

zack24 · Jan 31, 2015

Don't touch it- yet..Pull a drawer, post the picture of the dovetails and I can tell you pretty much what you're dealing with. If it's machine cut, that means no real value. If it's hand-cut. you know it's 19th century or older and you have to approach it differently....But take a minute and post a picture...

crusader · Jan 31, 2015

If you choose to refinish; I can not recommend Sam Maloof hybrid finishes enough.

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

Warren, you may have gotten yourself drafted as my advisor on this project in the spring. As for the filler, I struck upon an idea: when I used to move furniture in my salad days, the crew had a special set of furniture pastels (for lack of a better name) for covering up chips and scratches in furniture we scratched in the process of storing them in the warehouse or just before delivery. (I know, I was shocked at the time too. It seemed very dishonest to me.) I'm wondering if, after damaged parts have been striped, I could actually paint in grain lines to imitate original grain. I know that sounds different, but I have years of experience working with acrylic paints. Zack, will post a pic or two tomorrow per your request. Crusader, where can I find Sam Maloof finishes? I've never heard of the name.

Again, though, while this may make me a Philistine, I'm not really interested in its value as an antique. I am interested in it as a pleasant work station. And for some reason, I want to make it a transparent foresty green. I will be finishing my pipe cabinet, when I finish building it, the same way.

warren · Jan 31, 2015

Just keep in mind that you may be defacing 10s of thousands of dollars. I think the chance of that my be remote but, if there is any doubt . . . I kid you not! For that kind of money you could buy a room full of furniture and still enough left over for the "big screen." And maybe enough to have someone come over once a week to clean pipes, smoking pipes . . . tobacco smoking pipes.
Re: Pictures If they are of the dovetails, a photo from the side and the top, if you will.

warren · Jan 31, 2015

Disclaimer: I should make this clear. I do woodworking and not appraisal. I'm betting that there are sufficient enough members with some skills in this area that we can come to a consensus as to whether or not further exploration is necessary with a local specialist. Photos can help but, there are many other things to check, screws, nails, other joinery techniques. I shudder in fear that you will make a decision based solely on my or another's opinion which are based strictly on photo evidence.
Oh and while you are taking the thing apart check underneath, inside and everywhere for labels, especially the bottoms of drawers. A label will probably settle once and for all our concerns.

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

The name "Ethan Allen" is burned or stamped into the inside of one drawer. Is that an indicator of importance or dating? Certainly if it's worth so much, I would refrain from restoring it, or at least think about bringing it back to its original state for sale. But that sets me up with a whole new set of problems, like who do I locate to pay a valid price when a secondary seller is going to be looking for their own profit, where do I go, and so forth. I'm not an antiques salesman, after all.

warren · Jan 31, 2015

Take apart and sand away!
I see nothing like your piece in the current Ethan Allen catalog. I call it vintage and from what I see on the net it's probably worth, in really great condition, maybe a $1000.00. In the condition it currently is, I'd say you got a good deal if you paid less than $200.00. At $35.00 I'd ask if you had a gun in your hand during the negotiations.

sparrowhawk · Jan 31, 2015

I discovered the same thing, warren. Here's the desk new, found on google:

So the desk is of somewhat modern origins, as you say, certainly no more than $1000, and from what I saw considerably less than that. So I don't have to worry about destroying an expensive antique. But thanks for all your input, anyway, and warren, you may have to watch out for my messages in the spring when I get around to tearing this thing--a student tresle desk, btw--apart. And yes, I did think I got it at a bargain, but the seller is a lifelong neighbor. How it got in this condition is beyond me.

The first thing that needs doing is just cleaning it. I've been told that plain dirt on this kind of item should be done with cloth and paint thinner. Correct?

Any Woodworkers Out There?

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