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Any advise on removing oxidation from a stem that has nomenclature?

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fluffie666

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I'm running into all these issues during stem refurbs. I can make them quite nice with the Oxiclean, Magic Eraser and Micro-mesh method. By hand, sometimes it takes hours or days to do it like this but I'm quite happy with the results. The issue is on this Charatan's Make I have. There's nomenclature stamped into the stem and I don't want to lose it. Any advise besides having a light touch when I work on it? It's an old pipe so it's in pretty ugly shape because the oxidation is so deep. I'm afraid to use bleach because I think it will annihilate the stamping. I know bleach causes pitting. If I put it on the buffer with compound then that causes another problem because of the abrasive in the compounds. I keep painting myself into a corner here. Has anyone shined up a stem like this without losing so much material that the nomenclature starts to disappear? Or do I just have to accept the grim fate of losing it if I want a shiny and new looking stem?

 
hawke

hawke

Lifer
Feb 1, 2014
1,346
4
Augusta, Ga
I understand your dilemma as I have the same issues. I have opted to lose a little of the nomenclature and a little of the oxidation. Not a choice I'm really comfortable with.

 
fluffie666

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I hear ya hawke. I wish I wasn't so neurotic sometimes. I don't even think it's a pipe that's worth much. Maybe in the $50 to $90 range if I was going to sell it and I got lucky. I'm still trying to hone my skills at this kind of thing and I'm the kind of person that thinks if it isn't perfect... well then it's just crap.

 
sablebrush52

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,765
45,328
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Basically, I'd just go the micromesh route, using care to avoid the nomenclature, and live with the bit of oxidation that remains around it. You can use cosmetic Q-tips, which have a hardened pad, with a metal polish like Simichrome to extend the area cleaned of oxidation close to the edges of the stampings than just using micromesh alone.
If you go the bleach route paint over the nomenclature with vaseline, which will offer some protection. Bleach will cause pitting, both on the outside and inside the airway, wherever there is oxidation. So be prepared to polish out the airway. Actually polishing out the airway isn't a bad thing anyway, if you have a dremel and pipe cleaners.
Once you're done with the cleaning, seal the stem with wax and keep the pipe out of light except when you are going to smoke it. None of my pipes are on racks. They're all kept in drawers.

 
fluffie666

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
Simichrome. Never heard of it. Maybe I've have because I've used some metal polish. Just haven't paid much attention to the brand. My question would be, why not use Simichrome on the whole stem in place of oxiclean or bleach? Is it not a good option? I ask a lot of questions. I apologize.

 
sablebrush52

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,765
45,328
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Polishes like Simichrome are good for polishing a dulled surface, but not good for physically removing the layer of oxidation. Oxidation has to be removed through sanding or buffing. If the stem has gone really orange, this is a significant amount of material to remove. Bleach gets rid of a lot of it, but leaves behind significant pitting that requires sanding or buffing to get to a smooth surface. Any way that you do this, the oxidized material must be physically removed or the process will continue to eat away at the remaining areas. Polishes like simichrome lack that kind of cutting power. They're for the final stages of polishing.

 
georged

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,537
14,225
Polishes like Simichrome are good for polishing a dulled surface, but not good for physically removing the layer of oxidation. Oxidation has to be removed through sanding or buffing. If the stem has gone really orange, this is a significant amount of material to remove. Bleach gets rid of a lot of it, but leaves behind significant pitting that requires sanding or buffing to get to a smooth surface. Any way that you do this, the oxidized material must be physically removed or the process will continue to eat away at the remaining areas. Polishes like simichrome lack that kind of cutting power. They're for the final stages of polishing.
Click to expand...
It never ceases to amaze me how often this ^^^^ gets said by people who know what they're talking about, but no one listens.
Oxidized material of any kind is different from what it once was at a molecular/atomic level. It cannot be changed back. It must be mechanically removed. What remains after it has been removed is then all that's left, however much it or little it might be.
Understanding that is essential to developing a good approach to restoration.
Thank you, Jesse. :D

 
ssjones

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,424
11,325
Maryland
postimg.cc
Oxidized material of any kind is different from what it once was at a molecular/atomic level. It cannot be changed back. It must be mechanically removed. What remains after it has been removed is then all that's left, however much it or little it might be.
Understanding that is essential to developing a good approach to restoration.
Click to expand...
Yep, polishing 101. I cut my teeth on metal polishing. Getting stainless or other to shine like chrome means simply removing any imperfections. Pipe stems are similar. I get peeved when folks mix up waxing and polishing....

 
xrundog

xrundog

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 23, 2014
737
1
Ames, IA
I cut a Magic Eraser into 8 cubes. Then I use a cube and Soft Scrub to take the oxidation off. Probably 5 minutes or so a cube. I break it into sessions to seem less arduous. I used to wet sand. But the ME/SS method works better as it doesn't take material off the stem like sanding does. No scratching either. Buffing to a shine goes a lot faster. Check your work in direct sunlight. It can look black until the sun shines on it. Get it all or it will come back pretty fast.

 
fluffie666

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I think Soft Scrub has bleach in it. I'm not a fan of bleach on stems but my buddy wants me to refurb a few of his dads old pipes. I'm going to try that one out. Thanx xrun!

 
mso489

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,459
what sablebrush and others said ... I'd polish around the stamping leaving a halo of oxidation so you can fully read the stamp. I think the gain in authentication would be appreciated more than that thin strip of brightly polished pipe. Non-pipe people might be annoyed or amused, but anyone who is a pipe fancier will admire it. Some patina on a pipe is a good thing, in my mind.

 
xrundog

xrundog

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 23, 2014
737
1
Ames, IA
There may be some bleach in SS. Not enough to adversely affect the rubber though. Plus, the SS eases friction so the ME lasts a bit longer than it would by itself. I've done some Parkers that still had white stem stamps. They came out fine. Here's a before and after of a Dunhill I did using the aforementioned method.
DunhillShell1955142G4Before4_zps5be36d2b.jpg

DunhillShell1421955G41_zps1b51c623.jpg


 
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