A Shiny Stem

madox07 · Jan 10, 2018

Any of you guys can recommend a product for giving stems a "factory default" shine? I have read that some sand paper helps, although I am not sure I can find the proper grain around here. Also, I am not brave enough to use a buffing wheel, and olive oil - another thing that I have read about does not yield the result I am looking for. Currently I am using "pfeifenkopf" briar polish after de-oxidizing the stems ... it does wonders for the wood, but again, not what I am looking for in stems. Don't get me wrong, it does give the stems a shine, but it is a mate shine, not the glossy shine it had as new, no matter how much I use a soft cotton cloth to shine them.

theloniousmonkfish · Jan 10, 2018

Try toothpaste. Q tips to get around the button and cotton balls for the rest.

ssjones · Jan 10, 2018

Just using sandpaper (high grade or micromesh) does have a limit and it will not yield a high gloss shine like a buffer does. I'd recommend on the paper grades:

800>1500>2000

and then Micromesh sheets or pads

8,000>12,000

That's as good as it gets by hand.

briarblues · Jan 10, 2018

I've been using this for the past little while.
http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/stem_restore_kit.html
So far it works quite well, as long as you follow the instructions. For Vulcanite that has not been bleach bathed, or hard buffed with Tripoli, it works great. For stems that have been bleach bathed / Tripoli buffed, it takes more work.
Even after the Walker Stem Restore application and carnauba wax, I do buff with a buffing wheel.
Regards

Michael J. Glukler

sablebrush52 · Jan 10, 2018

All of the above suggestions are good. I'm very satisfied with the results a get from micromesh pad, and do the final stages under running water, which gives me a glossier finish. Then I apply a coating of halcyon ll wax to help retard oxidation.
Jon Guss sent me a link to a cleaner, developed for vintage pens, that looks promising and I'm going to buy some to test out.
http://rebornpipes.com/2017/09/15/a-review-before-after-pipe-stem-deoxidizer-and-fine-and-extra-fine-polishes/
http://www.lbepen.com/apps/webstore/products/category/1185536?page=1

headhunter · Jan 10, 2018

Let us know how it works, it sounds as if it should be right up our alley.

anthonyrosenthal74 · Jan 10, 2018

http://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/H203395TL?engine=google&campaign=[ADL]+[Non-Brand]+[PLA]+[Shopping]+-+Bad&adgroup=[PLA]+[Shopping]+Category+-+Jewelry+Tools&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiY_61_DO2AIV2rjACh2z9gfVEAQYBSABEgIPwfD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid^208603867909-device^c-plaid^380365173976-sku^H203395TL-adType^PLA
I use these, moving up through the grit to 12,000 will give you a mirror shine.

joeman · Jan 10, 2018

Madox...we may be missing some information here. After deoxidizing...tell us the steps you're doing from that point until you're trying to get the shine with finishing steps. I ask this because no matter your choice of polish or wax...those final steps will only reveal how smooth (or not so smooth) your stem is. If it's not really smooth...even the best wax can appear to give a matte finish...or at best, a bit like a shiny orange peel.

ssjones · Jan 10, 2018

Yep, I made some two assumptions -

- you have vulcanite stems

- they are oxidized
"Polishing" does entail removing visible scratches. The more smooth the surface, the greater the shine (applies to pipe stems, car paint, metal work, etc.)

madox07 · Jan 10, 2018

Vulcanice or acrilic, i do pretty much the same thing. As per the instructions at the store I apply a coat of wax, let it sit for about 30 minutes and then using a cotton soft cloth shine. I keep ribbing and rubbing, and no matter how long I do it, the stem does not the result is pretty much the same: a uniform mate color. That is nice, but it's not the mirror glossy shine some pipes had when I bought them.

sablebrush52 · Jan 11, 2018

What kind of wax are you using?

piffyr · Jan 11, 2018

Just to give you an idea of what you're dealing with when you have an oxidized stem...

That's an old, reg-stamped Dunhill stem. The oxidation process has actually broken down the molecular bonds created during the vulcanization process leaving behind a surface that looks like a dry river bed. Wax alone isn't going to be of any help. To polish the stem, you must remove the deteriorated material at the surface until you get down to the solid material beneath. In this case, doing so would have almost completely erased the shallow stamping. So, I've taken off just enough to remove the discoloration, and then just avoided the stamped area during the rest of the polishing process.

ssjones · Jan 11, 2018

Wax protects, polish shines.

PaulTheScandinavian · Jan 11, 2018

Mr Madox07, based on my experience so far I have had no success in removing deep oxidation other than using sanding method,with various grits & micromesh,the way SSjones described,and final polishing is done by using my dremel drill with cotton pads(this tool might turn to be very dangerous,so the lowest possible speed & No pressure appilied,sure enough,proper wheel buffer is way better option for these purposes if should you find them somewhere at reasonable price)

as for these special formula' liquids and polishing sets offered by rebornpipes.com,Walkerbriar.com,and lbepen.com,they may work very effectively,no question bout it,nonetheless when I was trying to buy them in past and saw quite high shipping rates to Eu region I was forced to gave up on those products.The best places within the Eu continent where you can get those micromesh pads are either Ebay.De or Modelling tools.co.uk, Hope this had some help, Greets, Paul

briarbuda48 · Jan 11, 2018

I’ve been using the micro mesh pads that Ssjones recommends and agree that is the best you are likely to get by hand. Recently, I’ve been using the fine and extra fine polish that sablebrush52 mentions (haven’t used the deoxidizer yet) with great results. lbepen.com is where I purchased the supplies.

PaulTheScandinavian · Jan 12, 2018

I shall buy those from lbepen.com once the euro currency strenghtens again.

madox07 · Jan 13, 2018

piffyr I haven't had a stem that oxidized yet, but I get your point. At this stage, it seems I may have to buy a dremel tool.

mcitinner1 · Jan 13, 2018

No Dremel is needed. You just need the full spectrum of micromesh pads. It's very simple to remove oxidation with the proper grit pads. But like Georged says, you can't remove oxidation without removing some material. A Dremel is WAY over doing it though.

madox07 · Jan 13, 2018

I have not seen them available where I live? Do any of you guys know where I can order them in Europe?

mcitinner1 · Jan 13, 2018

Madox can you order from Amazon? If not, just Google micromesh pads.

A Shiny Stem

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