Where To Go From Here? Removing Stem Oxidization Manually

Log in

SmokingPipes.com Updates

Watch for Updates Twice a Week

PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor

PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor

PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor

PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor

PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor

Status
Not open for further replies.

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,773
45,358
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Restoring a stem is a compromise on how much oxidation you let remain versus how much stem material you remove.
BINGO!
There are lots of ways to polish a stem, but they all boil down to this.
I just use micromesh pads, with the final polishing stages done under running water. Always end up with a glass-like finish.
I try to get every bit of oxidized material that I can because it will spread like cancer if left behind.

 

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,773
45,358
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
SableBrush:Which numbers/grades of micromesh pads do you usually use?
It varies, depending on the level of oxidation I'm looking at. With a severe case, like an orange stem, I'll start with the coarsest grade, 1500, to start, and use that to cut through the worst of it. Then I'll gradually go to finer grades so that I wind up at 4000 when the oxidation is gone and I'm in the polishing stage, completing at 12,000 under running water. I'm generally able to cut away what needs to be cut away without losing the shape any more than necessary. A buffer will do this much faster, but it's a bludgeon compared to micromesh pads unless wielded by a very deft hand, and even then will soften edges more than micromesh. As a jewelry restorer I used the buffer sparingly and only for the final touches. Overuse of a buffer is nothing but destruction.

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,439
11,344
Maryland
postimg.cc
I agree. I think trying to buff away oxidation makes the stems wavy (ejames taught me that).

My routine is:

800

1500

2000

Then, with micromesh sheets:

8,000

12,000 (that yields scratches that cannot be seen by the naked eye)

Then light buff with White Diamond and then Meguiars Plastic Polish

 

markfreburg

Lurker
May 25, 2017
13
0
Thanks to MB for mentioning what type of Oxyclean, and thanks to all for a lively discussion. I believe that I'll go with my gut and stay away from chemicals and just go with hand polishing as several of you recommending. Micromesh pads, obsidian oil, and so forth. The Barkeepers Friend/water paste is tempting but I do suspect that has bleach in it just like Comet Cleanser or Ajax. Someone remarked wittily that everything is dangerous to a degree but I believe a wise man doesn't plunge head first into extra danger just because the world is dangerous "in general." Outsiders might consider us nutburgers of the first degree for burning tobacco and enjoying the succulent flavors of the smoke, but, that's water under the bridge. And I don't believe an unbiased jury has ever come down with a ruling on that anyway. But I'd rather not use cleaning products I can't be sure of removing and then heat up the stem to see if the resultant fumes will make me sick. Okay, I think I've used up my time on the soapbox. Thanks again everyone! :)

 
Jul 28, 2016
7,633
36,765
Finland-Scandinavia-EU
Mr SableBrush52/SSJones, Thanks for the added info, oh yes, as for various electrical buffers,Dremell drills and on, I've been doing this road before,the use of them may turn pretty destructing in unskilled hand as mine,once I was puffing my handcarved western belt buckles Ok, I do agree I got them shiny with no much effort but at the same time all laquier surface and antique factory finishing disappeared,had to do some frustraiting restoring jobs afterwards,so at least in my hands Dremel drill with puffing wheel insert is no more than a tool usually causing damage,

 
Status
Not open for further replies.