Waxing Without Machinery

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daniel7

Senior Member
Sep 11, 2018
305
0
I'm just before my first DIY pipe-project, which will be a briar eskimo-shape pipe. Everything is in my head already, finally I found the correct piece of briar and stem, I know the colour I would like to use for staining, so hopefully everything will go in order. I have only one question; Can I apply carnauba wax also by hand? I would like to work 100% by hand (except drilling/chamber), so I will use saw, sandpaper, files. The only thing what I can't see is the application method of the wax. Carnauba is a very hard material and I'm not sure if it is possible to reach the same, nice-looking finish as with machine. Are there any special technique or material (sponge, clothes) what I should use?

 

chasingembers

Preferred Member
Nov 12, 2014
15,970
822
I've never managed to use carnauba without a buffer. Paragon wax may be the way to go by hand.

 

chilly65

Junior Member
Nov 13, 2018
70
0
You should give Renaissance Wax a try.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Renaissance-Wax-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65ml-2-25oz-Can/322052881039?hash=item4afbd8fa8f:g:D1cAAOSwh-1W3cl7:sc:USPSFirstClass!30096!US!-1

 

daniel7

Senior Member
Sep 11, 2018
305
0
Thank you, but what do you think, is Paragon hard enough? Won't it be matte too fast? Or will it protect the pipe enough?
This renaissance looks also promising.

 

chasingembers

Preferred Member
Nov 12, 2014
15,970
822
Halcyon and Paragon are updated versions of Renaissance if you were wondering.
http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/renaissance-waxuk-vsparagon-wax-polish#post-1094175

 

cosmicfolklore

Preferred Member
Aug 9, 2013
18,157
509
Renaisance wax doesn't make them glossy at all. It was a microcrystaline wax designed by British museums to coat any object, wood, paper, cloth, metals, etc... any material that you will find in a museum. It protects the object from oxidizing, without interfering with the natural finish of the object. I use it on my stems... but only because I have a bucket of the stuff that I use in my jewelry designs.
But, I think it's essential that you note the melting point of these waxes. A microcrystaline (if in fact this is what Paragon is) will melt at body temperature. If the wax melts in your fingers, it's pretty pointless to use it, IMO. The reason (I believe) that carnuba is used is durability and it has such a high melting point.
Check on the pipemaking forum. Most of these artisan pipes are coated with a formula of carnuba and shellac. Or, something along these lines. Plus, they would know what the hell they are talking about.

 

cosmicfolklore

Preferred Member
Aug 9, 2013
18,157
509
I also use it... on my hammers, my anvils, any surface that will rust in my studio. Knife makers are big into using it on their work, and it does a fairly good job of reducing tarnish on jewelry. It is fantastic at protecting stems. In almost a decade of using it, I have never had a stem oxidize. All I do is wipe my stems down well with a jeweler's polish cloth after each smoke to keep the luster up, and once a year, put a tiny dab of Renaissance wax in my fingers, wipe on the stem, and then wipe it off. voila!!! Some guys act like taking care of their pipes is work or something. :puffy:
Seriously, ask check out the pipemaker's forum. We are basically just a bunch of consumers... but consumers with a great sense of humor. That other forums has guys who actually know answers to stuff like this.

 

daveinlax

Preferred Member
May 5, 2009
1,057
5
WISCONSIN
It works great and that's why IMO Sam mixes in a little paraffin and sells it as Paragon and cuts it with a little mineral oil and sells it as Halcyon. 8O

 

cosmicfolklore

Preferred Member
Aug 9, 2013
18,157
509
Daveinlax, it works great on a freshly carved pipe? Or, as upkeep on an already finished pipe? The OP is specifically looking to put a protective layer on a freshly carved pipe.
Adding mineral oil and parafin makes it something completely different than a microcrystaline wax anyways.

 

sablebrush52

Preferred Member
Jun 15, 2013
9,717
371
I use both Paragon and Halcyon waxes, which are later formulations of microcrystalline waxes, based on Renaissance. I've used them for years with great results, but they are not as durable as a buffed carnuba. On the other hand, given how badly people use buffers, they are a less destructive way to go if you're looking for a gloss finish.
If you know how to use them, they will deliver a brilliant gloss shine, similar to a carnuba finish and they brighten right up if they get a little dull from use, which is also true of carnuba. The big difference is that they are a suspension of particles and will not hold up to getting wet. But the surface is easy to renew, so that hasn't been a concern for me.
Oh, and neither of them melts in my hands when I apply them, nor do they get dull. Quite the opposite, 'cause that's exactly how I apply them, but using my hands to polish the bowls to a high gloss and boy does that work better than using a cloth.

 

cosmicfolklore

Preferred Member
Aug 9, 2013
18,157
509
OK then, but keep in mind that microcrystaline wax was never meant to give gloss, so it doesn't make any sense to start with Renaissance as a base to adding mineral oil and other waxes to it. Why even bother with the microcrystaline base, which was designed to be invisible on the surface of something, if you were going to add things to it to make it visible. Just use oils and other waxes.
Museums needed a way to slow down oxidation of papers and leathers and woods to prevent them from getting older looking, but did not want the wax to be visible at all. Who wants to see greasy paper when they look at historical documents?
Why not just sell these as "something new"? instead of trying to say it is like Renaissance wax? Maybe marketing it to people who have no clue what Renaissance wax is or is for? :puffy:

 

sablebrush52

Preferred Member
Jun 15, 2013
9,717
371
Cosmic, the stuff glosses up wonderfully and keeps that gloss. If it works, it works. I don't know what or if Sam does what with what, nor do I care. It's a product that does what I need it to do, and that all that I need to care about.

 

cosmicfolklore

Preferred Member
Aug 9, 2013
18,157
509
Funny, how this thread came to this, but righto. I never made a comment about the halcyon paragon stuff. But, someone responded to my post about Renaissance, and... whirl and whirl, I totally agree with what you said Sable, and never disagreed. In fact, I used to keep an eye out for some of those polishes, but they were always out of stock back when I needed one. But, now that I have my routine down, I don't need any new products. But, if someone needed them to maintain their pipes, I would recommend them check those out.

 

mso489

Preferred Member
Feb 21, 2013
26,245
450
I don't want a new-pipe look, and waxes and polishes can cause residue build-up. Plus, vigorous buffing with a cloth, slightly abrasive and then soft, like a jewelers cloth, over time gives a good shine and an admirable patina. If I had a buffer, I'd use it. I like ol' cajun's shoe shine buffer as a multi-use machine. Polishing by hand has its limitations but it's advantages.

 

daniel7

Senior Member
Sep 11, 2018
305
0
Thank you for all of you! I will try Paragon and/or Halcyon. Which one gives the shinier look? I would like to have a shiny result at the end. Something like this: http://www.eldritchpipes.com/project/curiosities-sandblasted-author-2-2-2-2-2/