Vulcanite Stem Care
- Thread starter faziduke
- Start date
SmokingPipes.com Updates
Watch for Updates Twice a Week
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
Site Sponsors
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
- Status
As noted above mineral oil is in reality petroleum oil and can contain traces of undesirable compounds. My objection on using mineral oil on vulcanite is based on what petroleum oils do to rubber. Petroleum oil basically softens, weakens and damages many rubber compounds. Vulcanite is just hard rubbed and I wonder if mineral oil I the long run may be detrimental to it. I mean more towards natural oils. Vulcanite is made of basically rubber, carbon black, sulpher...required for vulcanization but the source of our oxidation problem...and linseed oil. Raw Linseed oil is likely the best oil to use for vulcanite maintenance but it can take forever to dry and can be tacky. Now some may suggest using boiled linseed oil but as it contains Japanese Driers which are highly toxic I will pass on that. Usually use virgin olive oil or coconut oil and have heard walnut oil is good. Also I will use a touch of Renaissance wax but stay away from other paste waxes as they contain petroleum distillates.
Back in the day I used to put extra virgin olive oil after cleaning my stems with baking soda. More recently I have managed to get some briar polish, which also works wonders on stems. This exact brand actually: PfifenKopf Just apply on stem, allow 30 minutes for it to seep through, and then just polish using a cotton cloth.
I use micro mesh, and it's not a bad way to become even more intimate with your pipes, but it does require the initiative to start the process and work through the set of pads I have.
I've got 9 pads of successively smoother surface that I can use either wet or dry.
The satisfaction of a clean, bright stem makes it worthwhile.
Amazon mistakenly sent me some scented Castor Oil (banana) instead of Vitamin B, and I've just now tried that as a finish. Jury's out.
(sometimes I've used a pre soak of oxyclean to bring up as much oxidation as possible, and it does help immensely.)
an example:
I've got 9 pads of successively smoother surface that I can use either wet or dry.
The satisfaction of a clean, bright stem makes it worthwhile.
Amazon mistakenly sent me some scented Castor Oil (banana) instead of Vitamin B, and I've just now tried that as a finish. Jury's out.
(sometimes I've used a pre soak of oxyclean to bring up as much oxidation as possible, and it does help immensely.)
an example:
Picked up a ‘35 Kaywoodie a while back. Absolutely gorgeous shape but practically welded shut from 80 (delightful) years of drool and goo. Finally got it open and cleared and began work toward sanitizing the stem when, wouldn’t you know it, that first drop of alcohol immediately turned a jet black stem a deep, rich shade of turd.
Well, no amount of Burt’s bees brings a luster to this thing. It just seeps in. I’ve taken to putting one of those pipe condom thingies on the end and it’s worked out alright, but I’ll give those pads a go.
Well, no amount of Burt’s bees brings a luster to this thing. It just seeps in. I’ve taken to putting one of those pipe condom thingies on the end and it’s worked out alright, but I’ll give those pads a go.
Not long ago I went thorough hell and high waters when I was removing an oxidation on ebonite stem, nothing seemed to help, tried this all,micromesh pads, sanding papers, Pfeifen Kopf paste,soaking in bleach,and I thought I can get rid of this oxidation no way, but finally the solution was found, Dremel drill with polishing pads combined with white diamond paste and finished with carnauba,(spent five hours struggling with that stem, oh I hate them vulcanite stems ,
Ha ha ha, so it's ok to fret over whether putting a microscopic amount of microcrystaline wax or mineral oil (which is in about 90% of all skin care products around the world, and many doctors recommend it as a laxative) on the outside of the stem. This is somehow way worse than burning tobacco in a tar lined nasty pipe and sucking it right into our mouths? Ha ha ha ha!!!! You guys are putting me on, right? :rofl:
I use Micromesh pads. Depending on whether there is significant discoloration, or not, I'll either go through the whole series of grades, or go from the middle to the finest grades. With faceted stems I like the extra control I get with the pads. I can keep the edges crisp. The final sanding polish I do under flowing water.
Done properly the result is a glass-like surface. Then I'll coat with a TINY amount of Paragon or Halcyon wax and literally hand polish, as in polish with my fingers and palms, not a cloth, resulting in a much glossier surface than I get with a cloth. The wax is to help protect from further exposure to oxygen. If I need to do a little touch up, I use Simichrome Polish and a cloth to bring up the slightly dulled surface, and coat with the wax. Works great!
My pipes are stored in fitted pipe cases, 12 to 21 to a case, so they don't get much exposure to light.
Done properly the result is a glass-like surface. Then I'll coat with a TINY amount of Paragon or Halcyon wax and literally hand polish, as in polish with my fingers and palms, not a cloth, resulting in a much glossier surface than I get with a cloth. The wax is to help protect from further exposure to oxygen. If I need to do a little touch up, I use Simichrome Polish and a cloth to bring up the slightly dulled surface, and coat with the wax. Works great!
My pipes are stored in fitted pipe cases, 12 to 21 to a case, so they don't get much exposure to light.
I guess I've tried almost every possible way of cleaning Vulcanite, Ebonite, and Brindle stems. Until last week.
I ordered this from Dave Wolf and gave it a try.
http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/stem_restore_kit.html
My first attempt did not work so well, so I thought I'd better read the instructions. 2nd attempt made me a believer. For stems that have not been bleached / Oxy cleaned and just buffed into oblivion, it works great on the first go round. For those that have been cleaned with other methods it did take a little longer and a bit more work, BUT no damage to nomenclature. No rounding of stems ends. Easy to get tight near the buttons. Easily rinses off and the carnauba wax ( a little thicker than Vaseline ) works well. I wish I'd found out about this years ago.
I have no affiliation with Walker Pipe Works. Nor is Walker Briar Works paying me for sharing this information or my endorsement. It just works great. Any hobbyist can use it simply and easily, while watching tv. It is easier than polishing your shoes!
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
I ordered this from Dave Wolf and gave it a try.
http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/stem_restore_kit.html
My first attempt did not work so well, so I thought I'd better read the instructions. 2nd attempt made me a believer. For stems that have not been bleached / Oxy cleaned and just buffed into oblivion, it works great on the first go round. For those that have been cleaned with other methods it did take a little longer and a bit more work, BUT no damage to nomenclature. No rounding of stems ends. Easy to get tight near the buttons. Easily rinses off and the carnauba wax ( a little thicker than Vaseline ) works well. I wish I'd found out about this years ago.
I have no affiliation with Walker Pipe Works. Nor is Walker Briar Works paying me for sharing this information or my endorsement. It just works great. Any hobbyist can use it simply and easily, while watching tv. It is easier than polishing your shoes!
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
Mike,
I'll have to give that a try. Oxidation has to be removed and while the micromesh pads do that, it's a lot of work to do it properly. 10 minutes sure beats 30!
I'll have to give that a try. Oxidation has to be removed and while the micromesh pads do that, it's a lot of work to do it properly. 10 minutes sure beats 30!
Jesse;
I do not know how it works. But instead of the green "rising" to the surface, it removes the "stain", rather than need to buff with Tripoli or Micro Mesh , which can create problems for nomenclature. That being said ...... IF the stem has been "cleaned" the old school ways of bleach / Oxy Clean / or just heavy hands with Tripoli, it does require an application of the paste, rubbing it in, allowing 30 minutes of " seeding", then rinse and wipe. On a few really bad stems it did take a few applications, but the huge advantages are, ease of application, and no need to use heavy hands and Tripoli. I plan on doing a video on how to use the products. I only need a few 36 hours days to get caught up.
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
I do not know how it works. But instead of the green "rising" to the surface, it removes the "stain", rather than need to buff with Tripoli or Micro Mesh , which can create problems for nomenclature. That being said ...... IF the stem has been "cleaned" the old school ways of bleach / Oxy Clean / or just heavy hands with Tripoli, it does require an application of the paste, rubbing it in, allowing 30 minutes of " seeding", then rinse and wipe. On a few really bad stems it did take a few applications, but the huge advantages are, ease of application, and no need to use heavy hands and Tripoli. I plan on doing a video on how to use the products. I only need a few 36 hours days to get caught up.
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
again Walkerbriar says'we do not ship these kits internationally due to extremly high shipping costs'the statement which made me laugh out loud and is of course an obvious misbelief.
Paulie, don't laugh too hard. Shipping Internationally with USPS Air Priority, insured with tracking is expensive. Even a small 4" square box weighing only a few ounces is costly. Shipping basic air or surface mail is not bad. Still one must fill in customs declarations, which is a royal pain.
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
Regards
Michael J. Glukler
I'll say there's no replacing sanding with micro mesh. However I get really tired of it, and at times messes with my joints after hours of sanding (multiple pipes). This is the best thing I've tried so far.
1. Bon Ami cleaning powder: it's only a few bucks. this is a micro abrasive like bar keepers friend but without the harsh chemicals. It pretty much consist of limestone, soda ash and baking soda. I think it works better than bar keepers anyway
2. Flitz Plastic Polish- so much for harsh chemicals. Actually I don't know what's in this but it can give you a pretty good shine.
I do wear nitrile gloves because all the abrasives tend to work on the hands. I will say I do not know the longevity, I would guess any of these "easier" methods will not last as long as sanding. Both of these products can be found at TruValue hardware store. I haven't had any damage to nomenclature or rounded edges from this method
I am interested in the walkerbriarworks kit. They also have a carbon softener I'm curious to see in action.
1. Bon Ami cleaning powder: it's only a few bucks. this is a micro abrasive like bar keepers friend but without the harsh chemicals. It pretty much consist of limestone, soda ash and baking soda. I think it works better than bar keepers anyway
2. Flitz Plastic Polish- so much for harsh chemicals. Actually I don't know what's in this but it can give you a pretty good shine.
I do wear nitrile gloves because all the abrasives tend to work on the hands. I will say I do not know the longevity, I would guess any of these "easier" methods will not last as long as sanding. Both of these products can be found at TruValue hardware store. I haven't had any damage to nomenclature or rounded edges from this method
I am interested in the walkerbriarworks kit. They also have a carbon softener I'm curious to see in action.
- Status